Federal Uniform Guidelines

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COAT    1. The uniform coat for all enlisted foot men shall be of a single breasted frock, of dark blue cloth, made without plaits, with a skirt extending one-half the distance from the top of the hip to the bend of the knee; one row of nine buttons on the breast, placed at equal distances; stand-up collar, to rise no higher than to permit the chin to turn freely over it, to hook in front at the bottom, and then to slope up and backward at an angle of thirty degrees on each side; cuffs pointed according to pattern, and to button with two small buttons at the under seam.    2. For Fatigue Purposes – a sack coat of dark blue flannel, extending half-way down the thigh, and made loose, without sleeve or body lining, falling collar, inside pocket on the left side, four coat buttons down the front.TROWSERS For Enlisted Men, Privates – plain, without stripe. * Regular infantry trousers were dark blue from 1858 – 1861, but the color was changed to sky blue on December 16, 1861. Regulation trousers were high in the waist and had full and round legs and tended to be cut loose and fitted well up over the stomach. One inch slits at the bottom helped to get the trouser legs over brogans.* HAT For Enlisted Men – of black felt, same shape and size as for officers, with double row of stitching instead of binding, around the edge. To agree in quality with the pattern deposited in the clothing arsenal.    1. For fatigue purposes, forage caps, of pattern in Quartermaster-General’s office; dark blue cloth, with a welt of the same around the crown, and yellow metal letters in front to designate companies.    2. Commissioned officers may wear forage caps of the same pattern, with the distinctive ornament of the corps and regiment in front. *Hats and caps are particularly important for an accurate Western impression. Union troops were issued two types of hats both are described above (the Hardee and forage cap.) Slouch hats were extremely popular among rugged western troops. “Western troops looked quite unlike our men. They wore large hats instead of caps.” 123rd New York Infantryman  All headgear must reflect a western appearance and be of a period correct style and material. Hat brass was not common on western soldier’s hats.BOOTS (SHOES) For Enlisted Men of Artillery, Infantry, Engineers, and Ordnance – Jefferson, rights and lefts, according to pattern. *Union soldiers were generally issued four pairs of boots a year. These ankle boots were generally referred to as brogans. They should be made with the rough side of the leather on the outside.*OTHER ARTICLES OF CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT.    1. Flannel shirt, drawers, stockings, and stable-frock – the same as now furnished.      *Three shirts a year were generally issued. These shirts were made of flannel or coarse wool. Cotton shirts were not issued after 1852. The issued shirts had small turn over collars with a row of three buttons on the front up to the neck. Double breasted shirts were also popular and often worn over other shirts.*    2. Blanket – woolen, gray, with letters U.S. in black, four inches long, in the centre; to be seven feet long, and five and a half feet wide, and to weigh five pounds.    3. Belts for all Enlisted Men – black leather.    4. Cartridge-box-according to pattern in the Ordnance Department.    5. Knapsack-of painted canvas, according to pattern now issued by Quartermaster’s Department; the great-coat, when carried, to be neatly folded, not rolled, and covered by the outer flap of the knapsack.    6. Haversack-of painted canvas, with an inside sack unpainted, according to the pattern now issued by the Quartermaster’s Department.    7. Canteen-of tin, covered with woolen cloth, of the pattern now issued by the Quartermaster’s Department.